Seoul Scene with Matt Kelley

Seoul Scene with Matt Kelley was gracious enough to ask me on as a guest to talk about Seollal and about the Food Journal. Click on the link below to go to the page and then click on the tiny orange TV icon to watch the streaming video. In fact, you can invent your own drinking game on how many times I clear my throat and push up my glasses. Actually, I knew there were video cameras in the room, but there was no monitor, so I was in “radio mode” and oblivious to the idea that I should look more composed on camera and get my hand out of my face.

Seoul Scene with Matt Kelley

See if you can catch a glimpse of Dan Gray in the opening, minus Buddhist crotch.

Tags: All Korean Food, radio, seoul

My experimenting with Google maps continues to grow! This time it’s an interactive map of Korea’s ethnic restaurants with an emphasis on good Mexican food.

Mexican food in Seoul has seen a recent explosion. I remember a few years ago when the best Seoulites could do is get their hands on some salsa and tortillas at Costco and improvise their own taco nights at home. Well, my oh my, how things have changed.

I tried several times to embed the map here but for some reason the code for the map isn’t playing nice with the Zenkimchi code, so you’ll have to go to my personal blog, or go directly to the map.

Tags: Mexican food, seoul

Posted by Chubbo Chubbington

I am sitting at a small wooden table in a wooden chair, my bags, coat, scarf, and hat all hanging carelessly over its back, offending fine diners everywhere, I’m sure. Please, oh  please ignore me as I dump 2 packets of organic sugar into this latte. I usually don’t embarrass easily, but I was sharing a morning coffee with Jeong Geum-Sook 정 금숙, the owner of Acozza, a restaurant, café, and art gallery on a tiny backstreet in Heungeop 흥업, a small town in Wonju 원주.

Acozza has been humbly sitting on a small hill at the top of a natural stone stairway since 2008, when the project that Jeong started in 2007 finally materialized. Jeong had a vision of a place that made art accessible to the people, served Italian-inspired dishes, and poured perfect cups of coffee. After spending time in Italy and studying at an Italian cooking school in Seoul, she dreamed up Acozza’s modest but satisfying menu. It features fresh in-house coffee (hard to ignore the Probat solid drum roaster in the corner), pizzas, pastas, and a variety of wines.

Not only does Jeong bring quality organic products and local meats (never imported) to the table, she also brings art into the lives of her diners. Each time I’ve visited Acozza, the atmosphere has been wildly different. The first time I tasted (read gorged on) the Ham Pizza 헴 피자, I chewed in the glow of Mix and Media 믹스맨 믹스미디아, a multimedia art presentation including multi-screen installations, prints, and video. The second time, I didn’t even pretend to share as I devoured an entire pizza on my own under the wide eyes of the work of artist Kim Ji Young, with the paint & textile patterns of Kim Young Mi over my shoulder. They were only two of the several artists exhibiting in Propose 프로포즈.

On my third visit and the opening for exhibition Imago Dei 이마고 데이, I chomped on a variety of complimentary dishes and discovered The Calzone surrounded by artists’ impressions of God. (Yes capitalized because after this one all other calzones will cease to exist for you.) I’m pretty sure that the Lord himself ordained this master of all turnovers. It is filled with fresh mozzarella, grana padano, and ricotta cheeses. I mean, grana padano was created by Cisterian monks, so I’m pretty sure it’s holy.

This day, our chatter is supervised by photographs of Beautiful Wonju 악_어_꿈- 아름다운 거리를 꿈꾸다. Jeong is reserved, but her passion is apparent in the way she speaks about her experiences, how they’ve shaped her, and how she’s brought the best of them all together here, in Acozza. She says that her faith inspires her to keep working, to keep putting on exhibitions, to keep making good food. And I say, Amen sister! because it’s one of my favorite places here in Wonju. And y’all. That Ham Pizza is not a joke. It is Jeju ham, handmade, perfectly sliced, and layered over fresh mozzarella cheese, a simple but beautiful sauce, and finished with crushed black pepper. And if you ask real nice, they’ll throw some fresh basil on top.

Also, Seoulites, have no fear! You too can experience the holiness of The Calzone. Wonju is a mere hour and a half by bus and terribly convenient for a day trip. Acozza is worth an out-of-town lunch date, for sure. If you decide to come, look me up. I’ll join you for some art, coffee, and pizza. But don’t expect me to share.

ChubbO Chubbington has lived in Korea for about 2 years. She has been gifted with the ability to eat spicy food and not complain about it or sweat while doing so. She leaves the cooking to her Korean husband and focuses mainly on consumption. She knows Krispy Kreme is not one of the main food groups, but hopes to rectify this injustice in the future. She is currently living in Wonju and writes at Wonju Wife when she’s not stuffing her face.

Tags: Korea, Restaurant, seoul

The Seoul Magazine article I wrote about Bizarre Foods is now online.  Go to page 49.

(SEOUL Magazine, May 2009)

Tags: bizarre foods, Food, Korea, seoul, zimmern

We’re reaching the end of the hype week for the South Korea episode of “Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern.”

This has all been in the works since we first got the call to help with the show back in August 2008.  I don’t think I have another Bizarre Foods post left in me.  By now, I think they’re scattered all over the place.  So I’ll link all the Bizarre Foods Posts here.

Remember to

• subscribe to the ZenKimchi Korean Food Journal to keep up with latest food happenings in Korea
• “Fan” us on Facebook to join our community
• browse the photos and
• keep up with ZenKimchi in the media (woo hoo!  videos!)
• If you use Google Earth we have comprehensive bookmarks for downloading, including a Bizarre Foods Pack
• Listen weekly to the SeoulPodcast for stories of living in one of the quirkiest and most exhilarating cities in the world
• Want to contribute an article, restaurant review or just a rant? Do so

Behind-the-scenes with Bizarre Foods

Part 1: Scouting Locations – We help come up with foods, restaurants and ideas for the show.

Part 2: Getting Folks on Camera – Finding Koreans to speak English on TV is hard.

Part 3: Noryangjin Fish Market – Chef Kim and Andrew wander a wonderland of seafood

Part 4: The Blogger Outing – ZenKimchi’s time to represent

Behind-the-scenes Pictures

Food

100 Korean Foods You Gotta Try

15 Strangest Foods I’ve Tried Thus Far

Gobchang Gui – Grilled beef intestines

Hong-eo – Fermented skate

Cheonggukjang – “Dead Body Stew”

Gamjatang – “Potato Soup” but really pork spine soup

Haejangguk – “Hangover Stew” with pork backbone, similar to Gamjatang

Beondaeggi (Silkworm Larvae) and Roasted Crickets – at the end of the video

Bog-eo – Blowfish

Corn Ice Cream

Baechu Kimchi – Cabbage Kimchi

Hui – Korean sashimi with live octopus

Jokbal – Pigs Feet

Sundae – Gelatinous Blood and Noodle Sausage

Budae Jjigae – “Army Base” Stew, traditionally including hot dogs and Spam

Haemultang – Seafood Soup

Chicken Galbi with Live Octopus

Grilled Pork WITH SKIN (Ggeobdaegi Ogyeopsal 껍대기 오겹살)

Smothered Raw Crabs

Korean Fried Chicken

Kids Love Squid

Acorn Jelly Salad

SundaeGuk – A big bowl of nasty

Crunchy Baby Crabs

Spicy Chicken Feet

The Meat Buffet

Andong Soju

Yogurt Soju

Strange Finds

Other Links

Bizarre Foods Video Central – Whatever videos we find, we post here

“In Defense of Bizarre Foods” – My rant in response to a Village Voice blogger’s tirade against the show

The Official Site for the South Korea Episode

UPDATE: The South Korea episode is now available for purchase in iTunes.

Tags: bizarre foods, dead body soup, Korea, seoul

[NOTE: Pictures with the watermark "Fat Man Seoul" were taken by Jennifer Flinn of FatManSeoul.com]

I’m a mooch.

And you know what? I don’t care.

Sell out?

Name your price.

Freebie whore?

How much leg do I need to show?

It’s not like this site is pulling in the millions. It has to be good for something. And besides, if The Amateur Gourmet can do it, so can I.

A while back, I snarkily pointed out that a hotel in Korea had entered the luxury burger wars. This was started by Daniel Boulud with his DB Burger, which went for a mere $32. Now, you had the option, during truffle season, to top the burger with $150 worth of truffles, but we won’t go there. He got a lot of publicity for this, and other establishments noticed. Here’s a quick rundown of other luxury burgers out there:

The $81 Burger (The Old Homestead Steakhouse) – $81 (duh!)

The 21 Burger (‘21′ Club) – $30

Mini-hamburger “Slider” (Le Cirque 2000) – $24

BLT Burger (The Mirage) – $62

FleurBurger 5000 (Fleur de Lys) – $5,000 <– includes a very expensive bottle of wine

Million Rupiah Burger (Four Seasons Jakarta) – $110

French Burger (InterContinental Lobby Lounge, Hong Kong) – $126

“The Burger” (Burger King, London) – $200

Richard Nouveau Burger (Wall Street Burger Shoppe) – $175

It’s become a worldwide trend, and some have grown tired of it. When the W Seoul Hotel Walker Hill announced their 180,000 won creation, I said it was just a publicity stunt.

It sort of was, admits Executive Chef Ciaran Hickey. Yet it also has become fairly popular. They have sold over 100 burgers since it came out three months ago.

Who goes for this stuff?

Really, all types of people. Businessmen. Casino goers. Men impressing their dates. Chef Hickey even tells the tale of a family of four, two parents and two teenagers, who ordered one each.

So, how did I get mixed up in this?

It was that snarky post from a few months ago. Luxury hotels have people who scope the news for mention of them to keep track of their publicity. Chef Hickey himself found ZenKimchi while surfing the web, and sent me an email that made me fall out of my chair.

Lesson: sniping from a keyboard can sometimes get you free stuff.

You know, I think the BMW 2009 6-Series Convertible is way too much show and not enough substance. Only morons would buy such a vehicle.

We’ll see how that one goes.

Chef Hickey told me to invite a friend. Eun Jeong was going to go, and I wish she did. Her excuse, “I don’t like foie gras all that much.”

So I brought along the infamous Jennifer Flinn of Fatman Seoul, she of the evil demeanor and great camera.

To get to the W Hotel, we went to Gangbyeon Station in east Seoul and went out exit 1. At the first crosswalk, we went diagonally to the far side, where a free shuttle bus to Walker Hill runs every ten minutes.

At first, we walked into the wrong building, the Sheraton, which is on the casino side of the complex.

“Jennifer, I think we may be in the–ooh! ADHD conference! What was I saying again?”

The Kitchen, the restaurant that serves the X Burger, is after the first door on the right in the complex. We were greeted by Chef Hickey and Mr. Moon at the front of the restaurant. We were also running a bit late for lunch.

“I thought you weren’t going to show.”

Yea! Great first impression!

The hostess sat us down windowside with great sunlight and an amazing view of South-of-the-River. Then it hit me what we were doing.

Very nervous.

What if I start eating the burger and forget to take pictures?

We were served some sparkling water, and Chef Hickey joined us.

Chef Ciaran Hickey has one of those backgrounds that means you’re going to eat good food. He’s worked at The Pierre in New York and had made a name for himself at the Four Seasons Istanbul before coming to Seoul around a year ago.

Even better, he’s an obsessed foodie like the rest of us and has a fascination with Korean street food. The idea for the burger came from management after they tried one of the ones overseas. Chef Hickey’s kitchen was already playing around with the idea of taking a fast food staple, like pizza, and tarting it up for the restaurant. He himself had tried Daniel Boulud’s burger and wasn’t impressed. He wanted to make something better.

And here it is.

It is a monster. Let’s break it down, shall we?

Now, I’m trying to remember all the elements, so forgive me if I’m a little rough on the accuracy. There was so much going on there. First, the big meat.

Australian Wagyu beef (very beefy) topped with seared foie gras and shaved black truffles on a brioche bun.

Tomato, grilled red onion, fresh asparagus, wild pine mushrooms (very pricey) and a lobster tail.

Lightly dressed watercress and shaved fennel.

Three sauces: a brunoise (ridiculously finely diced) tomato salsa, a dark red wine truffle sauce and a truffle aioli.

Oh, and it also comes with fries.

Chef Hickey said that diners have different ways to eat the burger. Many eat the elements separately. He himself prefers to eat the meat part as a burger and dip the lobster in the truffle aioli.

Me?

It’s a burger! Load it up!

Okay, that was messy. But, in my opinion, the best food is always messy.

Taking a bit of everything together was a sensory overload. The beef and foie, combined with the truffles and dark truffle sauce pushed this dark, earthy meaty, um, “flavor” is too cliche. Can I use “smack” here? The foie gras made me think of Christmas. It tends to do that for me. Then there’s the bouncy texture of the lobster which contributes brightness with the tangy watercress and fennel. The pine mushrooms rounded it out with more meatiness on the sweet side.

So, you know what? Even though it’s such a monster, it balances. The salad rescues the burger from being too heavy.

Yeah, it’s a task to wolf down a 180,000 won burger, with it all falling out of the bun–a nice bun, I must add. So I wussed out and picked up a fork and knife to finish it. Chef Hickey was right. The lobster with the truffle aioli I could eat every day. I could top my cereal with it.

I played with my food, trying out different combinations and watching Jennifer have oral orgasms with the foie gras on her half of the burger. And you know what, Jennifer having oral orgasms can be a scary sight to the uninitiated.

When I finished the meat, I used pieces of the top of the bun to dip in the sauces and nibbled on the remains of the salad.

Man, I’ll have to save my money up and try that one again. Chef Hickey said it was a meal for two, but I could eat two whole ones myself. Nonetheless, that half burger stuck with me for almost the rest of the day. I wasn’t hungry for at least six hours after that. From half a burger!

Oh yeah, it may also be from Chef Hickey ruefully suggesting, “Would you like to try the dessert buffet?”

Coming up next…

Also check out Fatman’s account.

Tags: ciaran, Food, hickey, korean, seoul, w hotel, walker hill, x burger

The 2008 Seoul Food Festival runs from August 22nd to August 31st. Events will occur in different locations. Here’s what the press release tells us:

The food festivities will be centered on Cheonggye Plaza, starting on the 23rd and running for the entirety of the festival. Come on opening weekend for opportunities to sample traditional Korean fare, and signature dishes from around the world. The weekend will also feature eating and cooking competitions and provide a great set of opportunities to get out and try some new foods.

On the 23rd and 24th come to Gyeonghui Palace (located between Seodaemun and Gwanghwamun stations) between 13:00 and 21:00 for the Royal Food Exhibition. Come and sample dishes from the tables of Korean kings and queens throughout history. You will also have an opportunity to learn about the inner workings of court kitchens.

If you prefer to learn while you eat, come on down to the Seoul Museum of History on either weekend to enjoy the displays whilst sampling different Korean cakes and teas. On Saturday the 23rd, you can watch a traditional Korean tea ceremony and learn how Korea’s notables took their tea in this elaborate traditional rite.

If this is all too stuffy, why not come and see how the other half lived? After all, not just Korean royalty enjoyed a rich culinary heritage. The Namsan Folk village will be holding tastings of traditional peasant fare. Come and try out dishes from Korea’s four major holidays in this fun and centrally located folk village. This tasting sample will be held on both of the event’s weekends.

The final weekend of the food festival moves to the top of Namsan where popular Korean dishes like galbi and bibimbab can be enjoyed alongside traditional alcohol tasting and the stunning views of the city that only Namsan can offer. Hike or take a bus to the top on the 30th and the 31st.

Tags: festival, Food, korean, seoul

Yes, I may be starting an ominous trend in bathtub cheesemaking by foreigners — that is, if foreigners actually had apartments with bathtubs.

I saw on Epicurious a little recipe for homemade ricotta cheese. Now, I know that cheese is quickly becoming more popular in South Korea. I’m finding more and more varieties, and some of it is not too expensive. Yet ricotta is still hard to find unless you cheat and go to Costco. And even if you do find it, it’s too expensive compared to what I’m about to show you.

And you know what, this is un-freakin-believably easy!

Here are the ingredients.

• Two quarts of Milk
• One pint of Fresh Cream
• Juice from one Lemon
• Pinch o’ Salt

That’s it.

The hardest part of making this is finding a vessel and filter to strain it through. But I’ll touch on that later.

HOW TO MAKE IT

Slowly heat the milk and cream to close to boiling. When it starts becoming agitated, add the lemon juice and turn off the heat.

NOTE: In the picture, I’m doing something I found out I was not supposed to do. DO NOT use an aluminum pot. In the next picture, I’m using stainless steel, which although not wholly endorsed by home cheesemakers, is better than aluminum.

So, as if by magic, the acid in the lemon juice curdles the proteins in the milk/cream mixture. Now comes the most difficult part — straining.

I have since found cheesecloth in the baking supplies section of E-Mart, but at the time, finding a fine mesh filter was difficult. I tried coffee filters.

But it was tedious getting all that into those little filters. I also tried lining a collander with the filters.

That actually worked pretty well, but it quickly saturated the paper filters, and it used a LOT of them.

I also tried a surgical mask, which you see all over Korea on high air pollution days. They’re cheap and plentiful, and they’re great filters. And they do work. I don’t have a picture, though.

Other than cheesecloth, the most effective filter I experimented with was a very, very clean hand towel. I laid it over a collander, which was placed over a large bowl.

That’s how I ended up with the nice thick cheese that’s pictured at the top.

Now, technically, this is not real ricotta. Real ricotta is made from whey after making other cheeses. But it’s a great mock up. It’s smooth, creamy, and has a slight lemony zing. I and anyone else who has tried it also has not gotten sick. If you’re a clean person, and you just keep everything clean and sanitized within the bounds of common sense, the cheese is safe.

What to do with the cheese? Spread it on bagels. Make a cheesecake. Or, as I will show you later, make cheese blintzes.

Tags: All Korean Food, cheese, Korea, make, ricotta, seoul